The Untamed Paths’ (TUP) inaugural Sumatra conservation camp began at the hillside village of Bukit Lawang. Bordered by the Bohorok river and the Barisan mountain ranges, the village serves as a gateway into Gunung Leuser National Park; an enduring stronghold for critically endangered species such as the Sumatran orangutan, Sumatran elephant, and Sumatran rhinoceros. This once unbroken expanse of lowland evergreen rainforest has been encroached upon via land clearing and commercial extraction of rainforest resources, devastating an already fragile ecosystem.
The camp provided a glimpse into conservation work through the lens of Sumatra Eco Project (SUMECO); a non-profit, locally owned organisation dedicated to protecting the fauna of Gunung Leuser. SUMECO takes on the immense task of wildlife conservation, one displaced animal at a time. A large part of their work involves confiscating protected species and rescuing animals entangled in human-wildlife conflict. Upon arrival, participants of the camp were quickly involved in the seizure of a Sunda slow loris from a public official’s building in Medan, following a lead from one of SUMECO’s informants. This network is essential in SUMECO’s work – it has enabled them to return over 400 animals to Gunung Leuser, and to even take on high profile wildlife cases like orangutan trafficking.
Another strategy employed by SUMECO is village sweeping, one that participants were actively involved in. Piled on top of and in the back of a mini truck, participants kept a lookout for protected species of songbirds kept as pets.Working with and within the local community, rapport and collaboration form essential elements of SUMECO’s conservation work. Through village sweeps, SUMECO broaches the topic of conservation, convincing poachers, loggers and land encroachers of an alternative way to make a living – some of whom have joined the team at SUMECO.
Base camp was situated at a hilltop lodge overlooking Bukit Lawang village and surrounding forests. The team had the privilege of sharing the lodge with an asian leopard kitten, the previously mentioned slow loris, several rescued snakes and a crested serpent eagle. After days of observation and basic care, participants assisted in the release of rescued animals; with the return of the slow loris into Gunung Leuser, and the release of the snakes into the forest behind the lodge. Alongside conservation activities in the day, night walks took centre-stage upon the setting of the sun. Participants had the opportunity to spotlight for nocturnal mammals and reptiles; an expedition in the dark. Despite the thrill of adventure – clambering around rocky hills, avoiding pitfalls and traversing thin plank bridges – the landscape never failed to remind us that major land excavations for road construction were in motion. Urbanisation in the heart of the forest meant that wildlife and humans crossed paths increasingly, such as encounters with two caecillians, an elusive subterranean amphibian, and a malayan blue coral snake along an excavated pathway behind the lodge.
In the day, SUMECO led participants on forest surveys through buffer zones and within Gunung Leuser itself. Day treks took the team on river crossings, into bat caves and up the steep hills of Gunung Leuser in search of notable endemic species. The semi-wild orangutans were spotted several times; once, a male along the fringes of a resort, then a female with a baby in tow in Gunung Leuser National Park. Other intrepid creatures that made their approach towards the team during several pit stops were Great argus pheasants and a troupe of Thomas langurs. There was also a palpable reminder that the rainforest is shrinking; logging activity was seen around buffer zones where orangutans were once frequently spotted. In this instance, the logging was legal as rural communities still heavily rely on forest resources to subsist.
The health of the forest is inextricably linked to the community. When given the tools to forge a different source of income, independent of resource extraction, the community will invariably choose to protect forests against encroachment, poaching and illegal logging. However, unique challenges, such as the Covid-19 outbreak, have extinguished ecotourism in the region- a massive source of income for many communities. As a result, many reformed poachers and land encroachers may have been forced to return to their original method of subsistence. In the same vein, SUMECO faced a very real threat of closure. A large part of their income for rescue work was derived from ecotourism, and pandemic restrictions halted patrols and crackdown operations. Currently, SUMECO is persevering despite limited resources; characterising their determination to protect wildlife and their homes.
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dennis@theuntamedpaths.com